Foundation Paper-Pieced String Block Tutorial
Hi, St Louis Modern Quilt Guild Members! Here are some detailed instructions on how to make the foundation paper-pieced string blocks we will use for our 2024 Community Challenge quilt.
You should have signed out and recieved a packet with the foundation and fabrics to make the 6” string block. Please, use only the paper foundation and fabric provided to make the string block. Do NOT add additional fabric or use interfacing/fabric instead of the paper foundation.
Your packet includes the following items:
- 1 paper foundation with instructions (Some of the foundations have a wider middle, so don’t worry if yours doesn’t look just like the example.)
- 1 large rectangle of fabric for the center area of the string block
- many strings of various colors and widths
- 2 small rectangles for the corners of the string block
(NOTE: I made up this test block before we purchased fabric and finalized the foundation. It is not exactly what you will make, but close enough.)
Now it’s time to foundation paper-piece!
Step 1: Attach Large Rectangle
Use a tiny bit of glue stick or flat headed pins to attach the large fabric rectangle to the back (unprinted side) of the foundation. Lift the paper up to the light and make sure that the fabric extends at least 1/4” beyond the solid stitching lines on all sides.
Step 2: Fold Back Foundation
Flip the foundation paper-side up and place a postcard or piece of card stock along one of the angled lines in the middle of the block. You can start with either line. Fold the paper foundation backwards over the card stock.
Step 3: Trim
Using a ruler and rotary cuter, trim 1/4” away from the folded edge of paper.
Step 4: Place 1st String
Line up the edge of a narrow strip with the trimmed side of the large rectangle and pin in place.
Step 5: Reduce Stitch Length and Sew
Significanly reduce the stitch length on your machine. I set mine to 1.4. The shorter stitch length will allow the paper to be removed more easily.
Turn the foundation over to the printed side. Sew on the line. Be sure to start and finish sewing outside of the dotted seam allowance. Use the fold as a stitching guide until you hit the main line.
Step 6: Press
Set seam and press the strip away from the large rectangle.
Step 7: Sew on 2nd String
This is where our string block departs from standard foundation paper-pieced blocks. The rest of the string section is pieced on the back/fabric side of the foundation.
Place a second string edge-to-edge with the first string. Still using a shortened stitch length, stitch 1/4” away from the edge of the strings.
Set seam and press away from the large rectangle.
Step 8: Keep Adding Strings
Keep adding strings until you get near the corner of the foundation.
Be sure to:
1. Use at least three different colors of string on each side of the block
2. Not use the same color order on both sides of the block - we want a random look
3. Use a variety of string widths on each side
Step 9: Finish with the Corner Rectangles
Use the small rectangles for the final corner strings. As you add strings, pay attention to how close the seams are to the corner. In order to avoid the final fabric piece ending up in the seam allowance, or not covering the seam allowance completely, please, make sure the seam of the final corner string is somewhere between the two dotted lines in the corners of the foundation. The small rectangles are wider than the strips so they can completely cover the seam allowance.
(The foundation in the picture only has one dotted corner line as it was the test block.)
Step 9: Repeat on the Other Side
Repeat Steps 2-8 on the other side of the large rectangle.
Step 10: Press
Give the whole block a really good press. Feel free to use water and spray starch.
Step 11: Trim
Trim the block along the outer dotted lines.
Step 12: Stay stitch and remove papers OR remove papers and stay stitch
There is not a perfect/easy way to do this next step. Before you turn in the block, we need you to stay stitch approx 1/8” away from the edge of the block and remove the papers. There are two options. Choose the one you like best.
Without removing the papers and keeping the stitch length short, stitch around the edge of the block. Stitch 1/8” from the edge of the block, between the solid and dotted outer lines. The paper makes it really easy to sew this close to the edge, but removing the thin 1/8” piece of paper along the edge of the block can be challenging. You may lightly dampen the paper to make removing it easier.
Remove the foundation paper and then stitch around the edge. The problem with this method is that the corners of the block can get sucked down and ‘eaten’ by the machine. (At least my machine does this.) You can make this less likely to happen by setting a normal stitch length and using a leader/ender piece of fabric or starting and stoping 1/4” - 3/8” away from the corners.
Step 13: Final Press
Give the block a final press. Do NOT move the iron back and forth. Just place the iron on top of the block and lift it until completely pressed.
Step 14: Turn in Block
Put the block in the envelope and turn it in at Sew Me STL (Sept. 15-17) or by mail by October 1. The LAST DAY to turn in blocks is at the October guild meeting (10/14). If you mail the block please put it in a small ziplock before placing it in the envelope. We have had issues with the mail service shredding the envelopes.
Thanks so much for your help making these blocks! We can’t wait to see it all come together!
